Dana 20 vs Dana 300: Picking the Right Exchange Case

dana 20 vs dana 300

Deciding between the dana 20 vs dana 300 usually comes down to whether or not you're restoring a vintage classic or even building a dedicated rock crawler that needs to get over boulders at a snail's pace. These two transfer cases are usually absolute legends within the off-road world, mostly because they're constructed like tanks and made of large cast iron. You won't find any flimsy aluminum chain-driven stuff here. Yet although they share some DNA, they are very different monsters when you actually get them under a chassis.

If you've spent any time hanging around old Jeeps, Scouts, or Broncos, you've probably heard people arguing about what type is better. The truth is, there isn't a "loser" right here. Both will probably outlive the vehicle they're bolted to. Nevertheless, the way they mount, their gearing options, and exactly how they behave on the trek might make a single a much much better fit for your specific project than the various other.

The Old Safeguard: Understanding the Dana 20

The Dana 20 was the workhorse of the 1960s and seventies. You'll find it in from the particular Jeep CJ in order to the International Search and even the particular early Ford Broncos. It was the successor to the Dana 18, plus it brought the major improvement towards the table: a concentrated rear output. This particular made driveline sides a lot easier to manage compared to the offset design associated with the 18.

Major things you'll notice about the Dana 20 will be the "Texas" bolt pattern. It's a five-bolt mounting flange that looks vaguely like the condition of Texas. It's a solid design, yet it could be a little bit of a headache if you're trying to mate it to a contemporary transmission without an expensive adapter.

The greatest gripe a lot of people have with the Dana 20 is the particular factory low-range gearing. Most versions arrive with a two. 03: 1 percentage. In plain English, that's not extremely low. If you're just hitting some dirt trails or even driving through the muddy field, it's perfectly fine. When you're trying to technical-crawl up a steep, rocky ledge, that 2: 1 ratio can experience a little fast. You'll find yourself riding the clutch or stalling out more than you'd like.

The Golden Kid: The Dana 300

Then we all have the Dana 300, which numerous Jeep enthusiasts think about the holy grail of factory transfer instances. It only had a short manufacturing run, appearing in Jeep CJs from 1980 to 1986. Because it had been only around for some time, it's become a bit of a sought-after item in scrapyards and on the internet forums.

The Dana 300 improved on the Dana 20 in almost every measurable way. For starters, this switched to the circular six-bolt mounting pattern. This is usually much more standard and makes this significantly easier to swap onto different transmissions. But the actual selling point will be the low range. The Dana 300 arrives stock with a 2. 62: 1 ratio. While that might not sound like a large leap from the Dana 20's two. 03: 1, you can definitely feel the when you're lugging through the rough stuff.

It's also remarkably compact. Even though it's cast iron and incredibly strong, it's relatively short, which usually helps with rear driveshaft length in short-wheelbase vehicles like a CJ-5 or even a custom pushchair.

Gearing and Aftermarket Support

When you look at the dana 20 vs dana 300 through the lens of upgrades, the Dana 300 wins by the landslide. Because the 300 is really well-known with the rock-crawling crowd, the aftermarket replacement support is crazy.

When that factory 2. 62: 1 reduced range isn't good enough for you, a person can buy 4: 1 gear models that turn your Jeep into the literal tractor. Generally there are also heavy duty output shafts, clocking rings to rotate the case for better ground distance, and all types of fancy shifters.

The Dana 20 does have got some aftermarket support, but it's more limited. You can find "TeraLow" products to bring the ratio down in order to 3. 15: 1, which is the massive improvement, although these kits may be pricey plus sometimes harder to track down than the stuff for the 300. Most people who stick with a Dana 20 do so simply because they want to keep their automobile original or because they don't wish to deal with the particular hassle of changing typically the mounting setup and driveshafts.

The Famous Twin-Stick Mod

Something each of these cases have in common is that these people are gear-driven and can be "twin-sticked. " If you're not familiar along with the word, it indicates replacing the single shift lever along with two separate levers—one for the top axle and a single for the rear.

On a Dana 300, a twin-stick set up is almost a necessary upgrade if you're doing serious wheeling. It allows you to shift the rear in to neutral while making the front in low gear, letting you do "front digs" to pivot the vehicle around tight corners.

The Dana 20 can furthermore be twin-sticked, yet depending on the specific year plus model, it may be a little more complicated in house to get it to work perfectly without the gears binding. Still, for both cases, having that extra control more than your power submission is a game-changer on the trek.

Strength plus Reliability

Let's talk about durability because that's why all of us use these weighty iron lumps in the first place. In the battle of dana 20 vs dana 300 , a person really can't go wrong with either in terms of raw strength. Each use thick things rather than a chain to move power. Chains extend over time and can eventually skip or snap; gears don't.

The Dana 20 is extremely stout. It was utilized behind V8 motors in full-size vehicles and SUVs, so it can deal with some serious rpm. The Dana 300 can also be very challenging, though some people argue the share output shafts are a weak point if you're working 37-inch tires plus a high-horsepower engine. Thankfully, as I described, the aftermarket provides fixed that along with beefier chromoly shafts.

One minor thing to consider is that these old metal cases want to drip. It's just component of the appeal. If there's simply no oil under this, there's probably no oil in it. But as long as you maintain them lubricated, they may be nearly indestructible.

Which One Ought to You Buy?

So, if you're staring at 2 greasy transfer cases on a garage floor, which one particular do you choose?

In case you are doing a devoted restoration of the 1970s Jeep or Scout, stay with the particular Dana 20. This belongs there, this fits the "Texas" bolt pattern upon your transmission, and it's more than sufficiently strong for 90% of what most people do off-road. It's a vintage regarding a reason.

However, if you are building a rig from scratch, or even if you're tired of your current exchange case and want better crawl proportions, the Dana 300 is the clear option. The greater stock gearing, the superior installation pattern, and the endless sea of aftermarket parts create it the better platform for the "performance" build.

The only real downside to the Dana 300 is the particular price. Because everybody knows they're great, the cost of an used one particular has crept upward quite a little bit over the years. You may often find a Dana 20 for a hundred bucks (or sometimes for free if a buddy is cleaning out his garage), whereas a good Dana 300 will usually cost you various hundred more.

Final Thoughts

All in all, comparing the particular dana 20 vs dana 300 is similar to comparing a heavy-duty sledgehammer in order to a slightly newer, more ergonomic sledgehammer. They both perform the same work, and they each do it with incredible force.

The Dana 20 is the reliable aged soldier that gets the job carried out without any bother. The Dana 300 is the enhanced athlete that's prepared for the Olympics. If you need simplicity and originality, choose the 20. If you would like the greatest in control and gear reduction for that rocks, hold out for any 300. Either way, you're obtaining one of the best bits of driveline engineering to actually come out of a north american factory. Just make sure a person bring a flooring jack—those iron instances are heavy.